著者

五十幡 巌

出版者

THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS OF JAPAN

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者連合会会報 (ISSN:1884412X)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.2, pp.16-18, 1964-08-25 (Released:2010-08-06)

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It is often said that popularity of perfumes does not so much change year after year as that of colors or costumes. We can see, however, transitions in popurality retracing their developments from old till latest days.Formerly the perfumes appeared in such simple types as Hungarian Water or Eau de Cologne, succeeded by single floral, floral bouquet or oriental types, for example as Quelques Fleurs, Narcisse Noir or Mitsouko.With gradual appearance of aliphatic aldehyde, so-called aldehyde types like Reve d'Or, Chanel, Arpège, etc. were created one after another in the nineteen-twenties which can be said the first golden age of French perfumes.These basic tones had not changed so much until the end of the World War II when remarkably new perfumes such as Miss Dior, Bandit, Ma Griffe, etc. were introduced. The characteristics of these perfumes may properly be said to have green, spicy and animal notes added as modifiers.In these several years Madame Rochas, Calèche, Cabochard and more recently Graffitti, Idole, Eau, Chant d'Aromes, Enthousiasme, Parce Que, Fete, Diorling, L'Insolent, kalispera have entered as new creations. In my own opinion, however, the perfumes of this series seem to be not so unique, but the variants in some point or another of the traditional perfumes introduced after the War.From a viewpoint of transitions in European notes it can be said that heavy balsamic notes in Chypre de Coty, Mitsouko or Emeraude are now dying out and aldehyde notes are declining compared with the age of Chanel No. 5. On the contrary we see light floral top-notes of Muguet, Gardenia, Carnation, etc. have become emphasized with use as modifiers of green notes such as leather or quinoline, or of fruity and spicy notes. It may be described on the whole that the perfumes now in vogue have become more of a simple Bouquet type with modest expression of characteristics, consealing, as it were, their individualties within.Meanwhile in America such sharp and pungent notes in as those Ma Griffe are more popular than straight floral, olassic and heavy oriental notes.As to new chemicals they have been utilized throughut the world particularly in recent years, and in America it seems that this tendency is most remarkable in the perfumes of middle class used in make-ups, creams, soaps, and so on.The above descriptions are my general idea with regard to the tendency of odors represented by Extraits.