著者
マクソン ヒラリー ホプソン ネイスン MAXSON Hillary HOPSON Nathan
出版者
名古屋大学大学院人文学研究科附属超域文化社会センター
雑誌
JunCture : 超域的日本文化研究 (ISSN:18844766)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.11, pp.46-57, 2020-03-26

Food, gender, and household budgeting were intimately linked in postwar Japan, and this is most evident in kakeibo, women’s personal household account books. This article argues that our understandings of the transformation in Japanese cuisine and nutrition that took place in the late 1950s and early 1960s are incomplete without the perspective of women home cooks who kept kakeibo, as household budgeting was an important step in meal planning and food shopping. This study examines the kakeibo of Yokohama-based housewife activist, Nakamura Kimiko, paying special attention to both the ways kakeibo publishers structured the lay out of the kakeibo Nakamura used and the ways she filled them out to understand how home cooks planned meals. Articles from women’s magazines, including Shufu no tomo and Fujin no tomo are incorporated to demonstrate the ways they emphasized the connection between kakeibo and home cooking, or “balanced budget, balanced diet.” Overall, by examining kakeibo, the study found that by 1965, women home cooks had figured out how to consolidate a flood of postwar culinary changes—including new nutritional knowledge—within Japan’s traditional meal structure. The article concludes that kakeibo provide a historical narrative of culinary change from the perspective of women consumers and home cooks.
著者
ホプソン ネイスン HOPSON Nathan
出版者
名古屋大学大学院人文学研究科附属超域文化社会センター
雑誌
JunCture : 超域的日本文化研究 (ISSN:18844766)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.11, pp.30-45, 2020-03-26

This article explores the history and politics of American-funded food demonstration buses (“kitchen cars”) in postwar Japan. Their express mission was to transform the Japanese national diet. I make two primary arguments. First, at least in the short to medium term, the kitchen cars were a win-win for both the United States and Japan. On the one hand, Japan benefited because the kitchen cars taught Japanese women how to cook cheap, nutritious, mostly easy dishes to improve the health of their families and the nation. On the other hand, these menus were planned specifically to increase consumption of American agricultural products, especially wheat, soy, and corn. For US agricultural and political interests, in addition to supporting the economic recovery and political stability of a Cold War ally, the kitchen cars—along with the school lunch program—were instrumental in teaching Japan to accept and consume American produce. My second argument concerns the reasons for the kitchen cars’ success. I identify the following two factors: staffing by mostly female professional nutritionists, who combined authority with approachability for the kitchen cars’ main audiences of middle-aged, married women; and the kitchen cars’ mobility, which allowed them to reach even remote villages and hamlets.