著者

奈良 綾

出版者

東北福祉大学

雑誌

東北福祉大学芹沢銈介美術工芸館年報 = Tohoku Fukushi University Serizawa Keisuke Art and Craft Museum annual report (ISSN:21862699)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.2, pp.75-86, 2011-06-23

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東北福祉大学芹沢銈介美術工芸館には、型絵染の人間国宝・芹沢銈介の作品と、芹沢が収集した世界各国の工芸品が所蔵されている。芹沢は、様々な国々の民族が生活の中で用いていた工芸品のコレクターでもあり、その内容はアフリカの仮面・扉等の木工品や土器・土偶、中南米・東南アジア・インドの染織品や装身具など多岐にわたる。中には、絞り・型染・筒描・絣などの技法を用いた衣裳や裂など、日本の藍染織品も含まれており、「被衣」と呼ばれる着物形態の被りものが存在する。この資料に関して詳細があまり知られていないことが契機となり、調査を開始し現在に至っている。 平安末期、都で用いられ始めた被衣は、後に風習として日本各地へと広がっていく。その長く続く系譜の中で、他地域への影響を及ぼしたという点で注目されるべきは、江戸・京都における慣習といえるだろう。当館の被衣資料の蒐集地・山形県における被衣を調査するにあたり、関わりの深い2都市の慣習を知る事がまず前提となる。そこで、今回は地域を江戸・京都に限り、文献史料と現存資料を提示して探る。 There are thousands of works by Serizawa Keisuke and a thousand of his collections of folk crafts from around the world in Serizawa Keisuke Art and Craft Museum at Tohoku Fukushi University. He was designated as a Holder of an Important Intangible Cultural Property, or Living National Treasure, for his stencil dyeing technique in 1956. He was also a great collector of crafts that people from various ethnic groups or countries actually had used in their real life, ranging from African primitive arts such as wooden masks and doors and earthen vessels and figures to Incan and Asian textiles, ornaments, and folk arts and crafts.Japanese indigo-dyeing textiles are included in those collections. I've been doing research into kimono-shaped veil known as Katsugi (literally, lady's veils), which belongs to this group of Japanese costumes and cloth made by using indigo dyeing, techniques like tie-dyeing, stencil dyeing, tsutsugaki (paste resist indigo dyeing) and ikat. I started doing research on Katsugi because it has not been generally known or examined in details. Katsugi began to be used in ancient cities at the end of the Heian Period and gradually spread across Japan as a clothing custom. In its long-running development, we may say that the Katsugi customs were well-established especially at Edo and Kyoto.Our museum has collected Katsugi found in Yamagata Prefecture. But first of all, I would like to present the literete data of Edo and Kyoto, and analyze them in this article. In next paper, I am going to present the data of Katsugi in Yamagata and compare them to the customs in Edo and Kyoto.