著者

平芳 裕子

出版者

美学会

雑誌

美学 (ISSN:05200962)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.60, no.2, pp.84-97, 2009

---

The women's magazine Godey's Lady's Book was launched in Philadelphia in 1837 by Louis A. Godey. Although it enjoyed great popularity due to its original fashion plates, the fact that they were a topic of intense discussion is largely unknown. In this paper, I attempt to shed light on how the magazine legitimized the plates by researching distinctive fashion imagery and engaging in ongoing discussions over a ten-year period. In studying the magazine's editorial notes, I discovered that some readers had actually been quite critical of the plates. To counter those who were against fashion, however, the magazine printed positive comments from female readers, and stories depicting virtuous women who remained unaffected by trends. Moreover, as the magazine emphasized the decorative nature of the plates, fashion came to be connected to ornamentation; and as such, an appropriate part of a woman's role as a homemaker. In this era prior to the advent of the fashion magazine in the U.S., by promoting the plates as "authentic fashion," Godey's Lady's Book established the position of the fashion plate in women's magazines.

著者

平芳 裕子

出版者

美学会

雑誌

美学 (ISSN:05200962)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.64, no.1, pp.155-166, 2013-06-30 (Released:2017-05-22)

---

Godey's Lady's Book was the most popular women's magazine in 19^<th>-century America. Although the magazine enjoyed great popularity due to articles on fashion and manners of the upper social class, the impoverished seamstress and sewing housewives had suddenly described from the late 1840s. In this paper, I examine the characteristics and meanings of the representation of sewing women between the late 1840s and early 1850s in the magazine. Since launching, the magazine had printed the articles on embroidery as ladies' accomplishment, not needlework. However, with the expansion of national land and development of cities, the increase of subscriber, popularization of journalism, it is provided greater value to the sewing for domestic works and side jobs as "women's work." The single-mindedly sewing women came to function as the new symbol of femininity instead of the spinning and weaving women who had disappeared as a result of the development of textile manufacturing. The sewing women, which had been depicted for a little more than five years and disappeared along with the dissemination of paper patterns and sewing machines, visualizes not only the fluctuation of the division of housework and labor in American society, but also how the women became sutured into their home.

著者

平芳 裕子

出版者

美学会

雑誌

美学 (ISSN:05200962)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.63, no.2, pp.140, 2012-12-31 (Released:2017-05-22)

著者

平芳 裕子

出版者

美学会

雑誌

美学 (ISSN:05200962)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.60, no.2, pp.84-97, 2009-12-31 (Released:2017-05-22)

---

The women's magazine Godey's Lady's Book was launched in Philadelphia in 1837 by Louis A. Godey. Although it enjoyed great popularity due to its original fashion plates, the fact that they were a topic of intense discussion is largely unknown. In this paper, I attempt to shed light on how the magazine legitimized the plates by researching distinctive fashion imagery and engaging in ongoing discussions over a ten-year period. In studying the magazine's editorial notes, I discovered that some readers had actually been quite critical of the plates. To counter those who were against fashion, however, the magazine printed positive comments from female readers, and stories depicting virtuous women who remained unaffected by trends. Moreover, as the magazine emphasized the decorative nature of the plates, fashion came to be connected to ornamentation; and as such, an appropriate part of a woman's role as a homemaker. In this era prior to the advent of the fashion magazine in the U.S., by promoting the plates as "authentic fashion," Godey's Lady's Book established the position of the fashion plate in women's magazines.

著者

平芳 裕子

出版者

意匠学会

雑誌

デザイン理論 (ISSN:09101578)

巻号頁・発行日

no.56, pp.45-58, 2011-05-31