著者
鈴木 貴久子
出版者
一般社団法人 日本オリエント学会
雑誌
オリエント (ISSN:00305219)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.42, no.2, pp.22-39, 1999 (Released:2010-03-12)

Medieval Arabic books of culinary, hygiene and pharmacology indicate that there were at least nine different types of pasta at the time. The records also provide us with detailed information on shapes, production process, recipes, commercial production, and medical use of pastas, as well as when and where they were eaten under what circumstances, and how pasta dishes were received by people back then.According to the definition in medieval books of hygiene and pharmacology, pastas in the medieval Islamic period were made from dough kneaded without adding yeast and then cooked in soup or boiled in hot water.1) Itriya, rishta These noodle-type pastas were the most popular in the medieval Middle East. Itriya had been known in the Middle East since before Islam. A twelfth-century geographer al-Idrîsî says that Itriya was then manufactured in Sicily on industrial basis and was shipped to various regions along the Mediterranean coast. Rishta was served during banquets at the Mamluk court in the fifteenth century. In the sixteenth century Egypt, it was served as a special diet for the sick people.2) Kuskus, fidâsh, muhammas, taltîn: These are the pastas from the Maghrib region. The first three are grain-like in shape, while taltîn is a pasta cut into small, thin square. Sha'îrîya is another kind of pasta shaped like barleycorn and was consumed only in Mashriq. Kuskus first appears in a book of culinary compiled in Mashriq in the mid-thirteenth century. A sixteenth century essay on cooking cites kuskus as one of the foods sold at al-sûq.3) Tutumâj, shashaburk: These are the pastas from the Central Asia. In the Middle East, they make their first appearance in the books of culinary and pharmacology in the mid-thirteenth century. In China, two cooking books, both compiled in the mid-thirteenth century, carries a recipe of tutumâj, which is transliterated into Chinese as “_??__??__??__??_ or _??__??__??__??_ tu'tu'mashih.” It appears that the dish had been regarded exotic in both China and the Middle East. Tutumâj is a flat pasta with square or disc-like shape. Shashaburk is tutumâj stuffed with ground meat. They were both served with yogurt. According to a thirteenth century Arab pharmacologist al-Kursî, tutumâj is a loan word form Turkish.Mention in Arabic records on kuskus, which is from the Maghrib, or tutumâj, which is from the Central Asia, suggests that there was a massive migration from these regions to the Middle East in the mid-thirteenth century.
著者
鈴木 貴久子
出版者
The Society for Near Eastern Studies in Japan
雑誌
オリエント (ISSN:00305219)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.42, no.2, pp.22-39, 1999

Medieval Arabic books of culinary, hygiene and pharmacology indicate that there were at least nine different types of pasta at the time. The records also provide us with detailed information on shapes, production process, recipes, commercial production, and medical use of pastas, as well as when and where they were eaten under what circumstances, and how pasta dishes were received by people back then.<br>According to the definition in medieval books of hygiene and pharmacology, pastas in the medieval Islamic period were made from dough kneaded without adding yeast and then cooked in soup or boiled in hot water.<br>1) <i><b>Itriya</b></i>, <i><b>rishta</b></i> These noodle-type pastas were the most popular in the medieval Middle East. <i>Itriya</i> had been known in the Middle East since before Islam. A twelfth-century geographer al-Idrîsî says that <i>Itriya</i> was then manufactured in Sicily on industrial basis and was shipped to various regions along the Mediterranean coast. <i>Rishta</i> was served during banquets at the Mamluk court in the fifteenth century. In the sixteenth century Egypt, it was served as a special diet for the sick people.<br>2) <i><b>Kuskus</b></i>, <i><b>fidâsh</b></i>, <i><b>muhammas</b></i>, <i><b>taltîn</b></i>: These are the pastas from the Maghrib region. The first three are grain-like in shape, while <i>taltîn</i> is a pasta cut into small, thin square. <i>Sha'îrîya</i> is another kind of pasta shaped like barleycorn and was consumed only in Mashriq. <i>Kuskus</i> first appears in a book of culinary compiled in Mashriq in the mid-thirteenth century. A sixteenth century essay on cooking cites <i>kuskus</i> as one of the foods sold at <i>al-sûq</i>.<br>3) <i><b>Tutumâj</b></i>, <i><b>shashaburk</b></i>: These are the pastas from the Central Asia. In the Middle East, they make their first appearance in the books of culinary and pharmacology in the mid-thirteenth century. In China, two cooking books, both compiled in the mid-thirteenth century, carries a recipe of <i>tutumâj</i>, which is transliterated into Chinese as "_??__??__??__??_ or _??__??__??__??_ <i>tu'tu'mashih."</i> It appears that the dish had been regarded exotic in both China and the Middle East. <i>Tutumâj</i> is a flat pasta with square or disc-like shape. <i>Shashaburk</i> is <i>tutumâj</i> stuffed with ground meat. They were both served with yogurt. According to a thirteenth century Arab pharmacologist al-Kursî, <i>tutumâj</i> is a loan word form Turkish.<br>Mention in Arabic records on <i>kuskus</i>, which is from the Maghrib, or <i>tutumâj</i>, which is from the Central Asia, suggests that there was a massive migration from these regions to the Middle East in the mid-thirteenth century.
著者
鈴木 貴久子
出版者
一般社団法人 日本オリエント学会
雑誌
オリエント (ISSN:00305219)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.37, no.2, pp.88-107, 1994 (Released:2010-03-12)

Many cookery books were compiled in the medieval Islamic times and thirteen of them were already indicated by Ibn al-Nadim (d. ca. 387/995) in the Fihrist. Although their importance as historical sources has been recognized, they have been a generally neglected subject of study.My main purpose of study of the Arab cookery books is to describe food availability and dietary life in the medieval Islamic period and to explicate the changes of dietary life under the constant influence of the various factors of political, economical and cultural activities. In this paper I intended to clarify their general character and to point out the strong textual similarities among eight books.As a result, it can be claimed, they were compiled as one of adab Literature. All those authors who compiled cookery books before the 11th century were on intimate terms with Abbasid caliphs in the courts in the capacity as physicians, musicians, bureaucrats and scholars; the authors who compiled them after the 13th century, on the other hand, they belonged to the urban society as the people of the educated class (khassah) like 'ulama's, jurists, scholars and poets. It alludes to the emergence and development of an urban high cooking after this period.Arad cookery books were, generally speaking, compiled with the aim of defining “the healthful diet (al-sahih min al-at'imah)” in accordance with the Islamic law and medical science. As for their contents, a wide variety of subjects are taken up; proper kitchen practices, the nature of various kinds of food stuffs, table manners and preparations for breads, condiments, preserves, sweetmeats, drinks and so on.The comparison of contents of eight cookery books reveals that these cookery books can be divided into four “extended families”.(1) Books that drew information from al-Warraq's work which was written around the end of the 10th century(2) Books that are strongly parallel with al-Baghdadi (d. 637/1239-1240)'s work(3) Books of which a number of recipes of preparations closely parallels those of Ibn al-'Adim (d. 660-1262)'s work(4) Books which were compiled in Maghrib-Andalus in 13th century Despite the similarities among those cookery books, each of them serves as a totally independent source with new information which reflected the social and economical conditions of the areas where they were compiled.In sum, Arab cookery books are important sources for the study of medieval Islamic societies in general.