- 総合文化研究所紀要 = Bulletin of Institute for Interdisciplinary Studies of Culture Doshisha Women’s College of Liberal Arts (ISSN:09100105)
- vol.29, pp.195-209, 2012-03-30
The Heian Period witnessed the development of various techniques for adding decoration to costumes, applying decorations directly to the fabric, in order to give the costumes new qualities. This paper uses archival material from the period to analyze examples of costume-decoration techniques, illustrating their types and uses and considering their purposes and effects. The techniques studied include uchi, kaineri, euzu, uchiyauzu, hari, hihegi, and kobari, all of which provided luster, shine, and fi rmness to the costumes. Most decorated costumes were worn as an inner, rather than an outer layer; thus, the effects were only partly visible, although the overall appearance of the costume was enhanced through the effect of layering. It seems, indeed, that these techniques were more than designs intended simply to add patterns and color to costumes, but were in fact luxuries created for the pursuit of decorative beauty.