2 0 0 0 OA 明治前期の男子服技法書におけるThe Tailor’s guide
- 著者
- 笹﨑 綾野 藤田 恵子
- 出版者
- 一般社団法人 日本家政学会
- 雑誌
- 日本家政学会誌 (ISSN:09135227)
- 巻号頁・発行日
- vol.69, no.11, pp.739-745, 2018 (Released:2018-12-01)
- 参考文献数
- 55
This report aims to clarify how the methods of measurement in the drafting method of The Tailor's Guide by C. Compaing and L. Devere were interpreted and received in men's clothing technique manuals of the early Meiji era, through its translation, “A Teacher's Guide to Western Sewing.” Based on C. Compaing and L. Devere's book and the original book by G. Compaing, improvements in the process and features of the measurement charts, measured items, and the graduated measurement techniques were shown. The sources of The Tailor's Guide were tailors in France, and their techniques were reaching maturity. In particular, the selected measurement items and the graduated measures were the cornerstones for the improvement of clothing designs from individual sizes to a general-purpose design. In men's clothing technique manuals of the early Meiji era, the techniques of The Tailor's Guide were partially used, but were not accompanied by the knowledge and technology required to introduce them fully. The Tailor's Guide was positioned as a textbook aimed at introducing techniques to the general public.
1 0 0 0 OA 明治維新期におけるフランスからの男子服意匠の導入の歴史
本研究は我が国の洋装文化形成の最初期において、礼服・軍服などの男子服意匠の導入に大きな影響を与えた幕末から維新期にかけての日仏間の交流の実態と意義を明らかにすることを目的とする。そのため、パリの服飾専門学校、AICP校*に現存する日本由来の資料を手掛かりに、幕末の将軍徳川慶喜と明治天皇の洋装に関連する資料を調査・収集し、日仏関係者による交流の具体的経緯と男子服意匠の導入経過の解明を目指した。その結果、軍事博物館(パリ)などの調査から、ナポレオンⅢ世から寄贈された慶喜の軍服、明治天皇の礼服の意匠、慶喜の実弟昭武と関わるパリのテーラーなどに関する事実が明らかになった。*Académie Internationale de Coupe de Paris