著者

藤田 恵子

出版者

The Japan Society of Home Economics

雑誌

日本家政学会誌 (ISSN:09135227)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.52, no.1, pp.33-42, 2001-01-15 (Released:2010-03-10)

参考文献数

45

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The purpose of this study is to clarify the historical changes in drawings of the upper trunk of women from the end of the Second World War to 1970. This period is often called the dressmaking boom. One hundred fifty-four basic patterns for women's upper trunks were extracted from 129 books, including sewing publications, textbooks, and nine different kinds of magazines, all of which were published between 1946 and 1975. Then the changing process of the patterns was analyzed. The results are as follows : Many methods of basic pattern making were published in magazines and textbooks for high schools. Therefore, the use of basic patterns for dressmaking took root among ordinary people in this period.In particular, the “Bunka style” and “Doreme style” basic patterns became well-known with the increasing number of sewing schools and monthly fashion magazines.After 1966, drawings which covered the shoulder and breast swell three-dimensionally started to appear.Based on this research this period can be called the “Period of Establishment of Basic Pattern Making of Women's Upper Trunks.”

著者

笹﨑 綾野 藤田 恵子

出版者

一般社団法人 日本家政学会

雑誌

日本家政学会誌 (ISSN:09135227)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.69, no.11, pp.739-745, 2018 (Released:2018-12-01)

参考文献数

55

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This report aims to clarify how the methods of measurement in the drafting method of The Tailor's Guide by C. Compaing and L. Devere were interpreted and received in men's clothing technique manuals of the early Meiji era, through its translation, “A Teacher's Guide to Western Sewing.” Based on C. Compaing and L. Devere's book and the original book by G. Compaing, improvements in the process and features of the measurement charts, measured items, and the graduated measurement techniques were shown. The sources of The Tailor's Guide were tailors in France, and their techniques were reaching maturity. In particular, the selected measurement items and the graduated measures were the cornerstones for the improvement of clothing designs from individual sizes to a general-purpose design. In men's clothing technique manuals of the early Meiji era, the techniques of The Tailor's Guide were partially used, but were not accompanied by the knowledge and technology required to introduce them fully. The Tailor's Guide was positioned as a textbook aimed at introducing techniques to the general public.

著者

徳山 孝子 打田 素之 木谷 吉克 笹崎 綾野 中村 茂 森田 登代子 藤田 恵子 山村 明子 刑部 芳則

出版者

神戸松蔭女子学院大学

雑誌

基盤研究(B)

巻号頁・発行日

2014-04-01

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礼服・軍服などの男子服意匠の導入に関わる幕末から明治維新期にかけての日仏間の交流の経緯と実態の一端を明らかにした。①明治天皇の御正服の意匠とAICP校に現存する絵型の比較検証から、礼服などの男子服意匠の導入がフランス支援による事が判った。②訪仏した日本人との交流が深かった洋裁店「オゥギャラリードパリ(S・ブーシェ)」は、男子服の発祥経路の一つとして指摘できた。③ナポレオン3世から徳川慶喜に贈呈された軍服、軍帽等の軍装品に関して、仏軍が定める詳細な仕様書などの資料が得られた。④The Tailor’s guideの技法は『西洋縫裁(裁縫)教授書』を介して伝えられたことが判った。

著者

藤田 恵子

出版者

The Japan Society of Home Economics

雑誌

日本家政学会誌 (ISSN:09135227)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.53, no.1, pp.31-41, 2002-01-15 (Released:2010-03-10)

参考文献数

27

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In this study, the high school textbooks of 88 volumes of six companies, and ten kinds of magazines of eight companies were analyzed, in order to clarify the features of the changes from the 1970s to the 1990s in drawing methods of the upper trunk of women.(1) At this time, ready-to-wears became popular among ordinary people, homemade clothes and order-made suits both decreased in number.(2) In most high school textbooks, the short measurement methods disappeared in the 1980s and the proportional method of the Bunka style came to appear in the 1990s.(3) The number of magazines which printed patterns began to decrease from the 1970s, and four magazines that carried many patterns were discontinued from the end of the 1980s to the beginning of the 1990s.(4) Since the kind and number of basic patterns were selected, this time can be called the “Selection Time of Basic Pattern Making of Women's Upper Trunks.”

著者

藤田 恵子

出版者

The Japan Society of Home Economics

雑誌

日本家政学会誌 (ISSN:09135227)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.51, no.5, pp.415-423, 2000-05-15 (Released:2010-03-10)

参考文献数

57

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In this study, 200 basic patterns in 176 books and magazines were used to survey the historical changes in drawings of the upper trunk of women. These books and magazines were extracted from among 375 sewing publications, textbooks, teacher's manuals, three kinds of women's monthly magazines, and a stylebook, which were published from the beginning of the Meiji era to 1945. The results are as follows : At first, basic patterns were drawn based on mainly breast size to make the upper trunk of girls' dresses at the end of the Meiji era. Thereafter, patterns which could be used for both children and women were created. Then patterns specially designed for women were developed. After 1935, basic patterns were adopted in school curriculums at elementary schools and by women's magazines, and the use of basic patterns for dress making became standard practice among ordinary people. Therefore, basic patterns contributed to the spread of Western dress in Japan. Drawings for women were partly influenced by men's pattern making and Kimono cutting methods. In addition, drawings designed to cover the complicated curves of shoulders and breast swells began to emerge in this period.

著者

中村 茂 徳山 孝子 笹﨑 綾野 藤田 恵子 森田 登代子

雑誌

服飾文化共同研究最終報告

巻号頁・発行日

vol.2012, pp.[94]-[104], 2013-03

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本研究は我が国の洋装文化形成の最初期において、礼服・軍服などの男子服意匠の導入に大きな影響を与えた幕末から維新期にかけての日仏間の交流の実態と意義を明らかにすることを目的とする。そのため、パリの服飾専門学校、AICP校*に現存する日本由来の資料を手掛かりに、幕末の将軍徳川慶喜と明治天皇の洋装に関連する資料を調査・収集し、日仏関係者による交流の具体的経緯と男子服意匠の導入経過の解明を目指した。その結果、軍事博物館(パリ)などの調査から、ナポレオンⅢ世から寄贈された慶喜の軍服、明治天皇の礼服の意匠、慶喜の実弟昭武と関わるパリのテーラーなどに関する事実が明らかになった。*Académie Internationale de Coupe de Paris