著者
三吉 満智子 中本 節子
出版者
The Japan Society of Home Economics
雑誌
日本家政学会誌 (ISSN:09135227)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.41, no.12, pp.1213-1223, 1990-12-15 (Released:2010-03-10)
参考文献数
13

A basic pattern making of upper trunk (short-measurement drafting system) was conceived using only human body measurements. We presumed that a closely and simply covered garment was a nearly developable surface similar to polyhedron, and applied the principles of surface development method, with the consideration of the characteristics of fabrics and the simplicity in clothing pattern making. Body measurements, drafting and wearing tests were done. Waist line was assumed as horizontal. Body surface lengths which use for drafting of development were measured with a measuring tape. Plan views for development were made by the horizontal cross-sections of different parts of upper trunk being drafted by 3-dimensional measuring apparatus. Basic pattern contour was drafted using width of pattern determined by the plan views and tape-measured values. Waist darts, from plan views, were entered in basic pattern. The test was conducted on the right half of body, using nine plasters models and one “body.” Results were found mostly appropriate, but some shortage was noted in outside cloth due to sewing allowance. In conclusion, extra 0.1-0.2 cm was added to 4 items of shoulder part. The reported system will effectively serve not only for individual pattern makings, and for the determination of data notation of upper trunk models, but also for the correction of proportionally-drafted basic patterns and scrutiny of drafting systems.
著者
三吉 満智子 永富 彰子
出版者
一般社団法人 日本繊維製品消費科学会
雑誌
繊維製品消費科学 (ISSN:00372072)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.45, no.4, pp.288-301, 2004-04-25 (Released:2010-09-30)
参考文献数
24

本研究は, 成人女子について, 上半身を密着被覆する個体への適合原型を求めて, その原型各部計測値から統計的に胸度式原型作図法, およびグレーディングに必要とするデータを求めたものである.適合原型は, 適合チェックリストを定め, その条件を満たすように厳密にチェックした.適合原型から胸度式原型作図に必要とする各部寸法を計測し, 回帰分析によって理論値としての各部算出式を求めた.またそのバストにかかる回帰係数をグレード係数としてバストサイズピッチに応じてグレード量を算出した.本報では, 衿ぐり, アームホール周辺の算出式およびグレード量について報告する.結果, 本実験の回帰係数からのグレード量と, 一般に多用されている胸度式原型からのグレード量, アパレルにおけるグレード量を比較すると, 本実験値が小さい値となっている.アパレル業界によって供給される衣服の不適合に関する消費者の苦情の一部は, これらの部位に関するものであり, 本研究で採用した理論的方法論は有効であると考えられる.
著者
尹 賢榮 三吉 満智子 廣川 妙子
出版者
日本感性工学会
雑誌
感性工学研究論文集 (ISSN:13461958)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.5, no.3, pp.87-96, 2005-05-31 (Released:2010-06-28)
参考文献数
12

This study focuses on the automation of a clothes pattern design. With two sorts of semi-fit jackets we manufactured five suits of every designs, changing the amount of waist darts distribution. To illustrate this, we performed sensory evaluation using the fixation photograph of a jacket with three-dimensional measurement of the manufactured jacket and a body. We have the following results by examining the result of evaluation by the difference in the amount of darts distribution, and the relation of a silhouette and cross-sectional shape was considered here. The quality of jacket silhouette that had a few amounts of front darts distribution, and had a lot in behind, as like the same tendency with waist darts in an adhesion cloths pattern to a human body, gains the support of a lot of people. As a result of quantifying the room that is generous between the body in said division grade, and a jacket as vacant space distance and a vacant space area, the darts distribution brings about the change of silhouette.Mal-distribution of front and behind vacant space distance which appeared in a sectional view in WL. Made the relationship between a pattern and the amount of organic functions clear. These outcomes say that we could get a clue to create a cross-sectional drawing that is necessary for a cloths pattern design, from the three-dimensional measurement data of human body directly.
著者
三吉 満智子 大塚 洋子
出版者
The Japan Society of Home Economics
雑誌
日本家政学会誌 (ISSN:09135227)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.46, no.2, pp.157-165, 1995-02-15 (Released:2010-03-10)
参考文献数
10

This report provides theoretically a comparative study of basic pattern of waist loose type and fit type. Following experiments on basic patterns were conducted : 1) Experiments on the theoretical derivation of basic pattern making; 2) experiments on the theoretical verification of basic pattern making; 3) experiments on the body measurement as case examples.The results are summarized as follows : 1) Under convex points of upper trunk, there were differences in the surface angles between waist loose type and fit type, accordingly the element lengths of each parts differed. Therefore the lengths of basic pattern differed.2) The difference of element lengths was larger in back pattern than in front pattern.3) It was devised to change from basic pattern of waist fit type to loose type, utilizing “the difference” of element lengths.4) Even the three-dimentional form of armhole was the same, the sole of pattern armhole differed between in the case of waist loose type and the fit type.
著者
尹 賢榮 三吉 満智子 廣川 妙子
出版者
日本感性工学会
雑誌
感性工学研究論文集 (ISSN:13461958)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.5, no.4, pp.57-64, 2005-08-31 (Released:2010-06-28)
参考文献数
14

This research attempts to construct the automated system of clothes pattern design directly from the three-dimensional data of the body to indicate the trend of creating clothes pattern design in future. In this report, firstly I attempt to obtain unfolded plans to fit the body directly from cross sectional figures using the three-dimensional data. Secondly, the study examines the methods of obtaining the width of each pieces necessary for making pattern on unfolded plan by changing some focuses along the division lines. This experiment and research show the following results. Firstly, the width of fit type torso prototype is based on the length of the outside envelopment, picking up the utmost projection points from the upper to the lower half of the body. Secondly, at least four division lines are needed in order to make the torso prototype. Thirdly, amount of darts appear mostly at axillaries posterior for the torso prototype regardless of focus and formed area. Amount of darts on the division lines, changes to a large extent, depending on the place of focuses rather than the way texture runs. But amount of darts by human sense and that of using temporal focal point correspond largely to others. In this way, the temporal focal point is likely to be effective.
著者
鄭 美愛 三吉 満智子
出版者
一般社団法人 日本繊維製品消費科学会
雑誌
繊維製品消費科学 (ISSN:00372072)
巻号頁・発行日
vol.44, no.12, pp.780-787, 2003

目的: 本研究では, 第1報で報告したチェストを説明変数とした回帰式を主として用いた成人男子用平均原型を, さらに汎用原型とすることを目的とし, 本報では特に肩傾斜について検討した.<BR>方法: 被験者は53名の男子 (25~29歳) の適合原型を求め, その各部寸法についてチェストによる回帰式を求め男子原型を作製した.ただしチェストと相関の低い肩傾斜は平均値による定数とした.13名の石膏像を作成し, それを用いて汎用原型としての肩傾斜の許容範囲を調べるため平均肩傾斜及び, 1°, 2°, 3°ゆるめた原型を着用させ, 官能検査を行なった.また着用時の原型肩先と人体肩先部との空間上の浮きを肩先空隙高さとし三次元処理可能なコンピュータ上で計測し, 官能量との関係を検討した.<BR>結果: 官能検査と空隙高さ計測結果, 汎用原型は平均原型肩傾斜より前後それぞれの肩傾斜を平均的な人に対しては1.03°~1.1°ゆるめることによって適合性を保ちながらカバー率を上げることが出来るという結果が得られた.この結果は平均肩傾斜よりなで肩方向50%は補正し易さにおいてカバー可能とすれば, 正規確率分布上65.8%をカバーすることとなると言える.<BR>本報告の汎用原型肩傾斜のカバー率を上げるための方法論は有効であると考えられた.