著者

政本 幸三

出版者

THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS OF JAPAN

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者連合会会誌 (ISSN:18846572)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.8, no.2, pp.32-39, 1974-01-15 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

10

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1. Seventeen strains of gram-negative bacteria were isolated from commercial shampoos, hair rinses, skin creams, skin lotions, hair conditioners and tooth-pastes. They were resistant against popular commercial preservatives such as carbanilide, salicylanilide and bis-phenol. Some of the isolated bacteria had the ability to oxidize raw materials commonly formulated in a shampoo or lotion, while they had the ability to utilize succharide and liquefy gelatin.The type of bacteria appeared in the product seemed to be determined by the product components, its formulation and manufacturing process.2. Bactericidal activity of several preservatives against the isolated bacteria was determined with the practical aging test in the model shampoo and lotion. In the lotion, sorbic acid was effective.The combination of p-hyproxymethyl benzoate and sorbic acid, or of p-hydroxymethyl benzoate, p-hydroxybutyl benzoate and benzoic acid was effective in the shampoo. β-bromocinnamic aldehyde and cinnamic aldehyde were also effective in the shampoo.It is suggested that the antimicrobial activity of preservatives used in cosmetic products is influenced by various factors such as pH, type of emulsifer and micellar solubilization.

著者

植田 有香 瀬川 昭博 吉岡 正人

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.38, no.1, pp.15-21, 2004-03-20 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

12

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現在まで, マイクロカプセルの製法や利用方法など数多くの研究が行われてきている。今回われわれは, 新たな壁材として, 「シリコーンレジン化ポリペプチド」を用いたマイクロカプセル化技術を開発した。この壁材を使用することにより, 90%もの高い内包率のマイクロカプセルを容易に調製することができた。また, このマイクロカプセルは平均粒径が約2μmと微細であるため, ホモミキサーの剪断力に対しても安定であり, 経時安定性も良好であるなどの知見が得られた。そこでわれわれは紫外線吸収剤を内包したマイクロカプセルを用いて化粧品への応用を検討した。その結果, これまで配合が困難であった水系の処方に界面活性剤を使用せずに, 油性である紫外線吸収剤を配合することを可能にし, 紫外線吸収剤特有の塗り感触の重たさや臭いなどを抑え, 配合量を向上させることができた。また, 無機紫外線防御剤と安定に併用することができるため, その配合量を抑えながら, 高いSPF値を化粧品製剤に付与することができた。このように, これまで有機系紫外線吸収剤の配合が困難であった処方系への応用を可能にした。

著者

今原 広次 伊東 泰美

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.16, no.1, pp.10-14, 1982-08-15 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

16

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Tyrosinase activity was manometrically assayed by measuring the rate of Oxygen consumption in dopa-substrate with Warburg's apparatus.The inhibitory effect to tyrosinase with Placenta Extract was tested through the above method and 20 percent to the original activity was inhibited by Placenta Extract.Furthermore, the activity of this enzyme was measured in tyrosin-substrate by the same method and at the initial step of the reaction, 60 Percent to the original activity was inhibited by Placenta Extract.From the above results, we recognized that the reaction processed from Tyrosin to Dopd was extremely inhibited by Placental Extract.

著者

片桐 崇行 大久保 禎 及川 みどり 二木 希世子 釈 政雄 河合 充夫 竹ノ内 正紀

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.35, no.1, pp.42-49, 2001-03-20 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

11

被引用文献数

8 11

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より効果の高い美白剤を開発する目的で, メラニン産生にかかわるチロシナーゼとTRP-1の活性阻害に着目して研究を行った。その結果見出した4-n-ブチルレゾルシノール (以下BRと略す) は, 強力なチロシナーゼ活性阻害作用に加えTRP-1活性阻害作用も併せ持っていた。BRは細胞毒性によらずB16マウスメラノーマ細胞のメラニン産生を可逆的に抑制し、その力価は広く美白剤として応用されているアルブチン・コウジ酸より強力であった。0.3% BR配合ローションは, ヒト紫外線色素沈着に対し, 照射前から塗布した系で有意な抑制作用を示すとともに, 色素沈着が認められた後から塗布を開始した系においても, 有意な色素沈着消退促進作用を示した。また, 449名の健常女性を対象とした1ヵ月間の使用試験においてもシミ・ソバカスに対する有効性が認められたことから, BRは優れた効果の期待できる美白剤であると考えられた。さらには肝斑を対象とした臨床試験においても83.9% (52/62例) にやや有用以上の有用性が認められたことから, 肝斑に対する臨床的な応用も期待される。

著者

滝脇 弘嗣

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.32, no.1, pp.3-9, 1998-03-20 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

55

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皮膚科学では病理組織学や生化学, 細胞生物学などの手技を用いたin vitroの研究が中心であり, in vivoで行われる生理学的研究は少なかった。その理由のひとつに, 生理学的検査に必要な方法が普及していなかった事があげられるが, 電子工学やコンピューターの飛躍的発展に伴って様々な機器が開発・実用化され, 皮膚の性質や状態を非侵襲的に計量し, モニターできるようになった。工学的手法を用いて皮膚をin vivoで計測する新しい分野は皮膚計測工学と呼ばれ, 皮膚科の研究や臨床へ応用されつつある。その現状や問題点について概説した。

著者

LESTER I. CONRAD HENRY F. MASO SHIRLEY A. DeRAGON 池田物産株式会社

出版者

THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS OF JAPAN

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者連合会会報 (ISSN:1884412X)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.3, pp.1-9, 1966-06-25 (Released:2010-08-06)

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本論文は, 表面現象に参与するラノリン誘導体に関して, われわれの研究所で行われた種々の方面の研究を示したものである。潜在的表面活性の根源を示すためにラノリンと, その誘導体の化学を簡単に総覧した。ラノリン誘導体の比較的な評価をするために, 簡単な技法を用いることで, 顔料の湿潤性に関するデーターを示した。エマルジョン系のレオロジー的様相に及ぼすラノリン誘導体の影響を, これらの系の粘性及び安定性挙動により示した。ラノリン誘導体の可溶化効果, 乳化効果を論じ, その意味する原理の例を処方で示した。ラノリン誘導体の拡散性に関するデーターを, その応用と共に示した。いくつかの可塑性効果及び表面効果を, その処方への使用により評論した。

著者

傳田 光洋 高橋 元次

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.23, no.4, pp.316-319, 1990-03-20 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

4

被引用文献数

5 15

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We studied the change in skin thickness of forehead and cheek with age for healthy male and female subjects using ultrasound method. Skin thickness decreased with ageing in forehead and cheek in both sex groups, and it was thicker at every age group in males than in females.We also measured the skin thickness from twelve different sites at face in six healthy subjects. It was shown that skin thickness of eyelid was thinner than that of jaw or cheek.

著者

藤原 延規 豊岡 郁子 大西 一行 小野原 悦子

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.26, no.2, pp.107-112, 1992-10-30 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

9

被引用文献数

1 3

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Human skin surface has been analyzed in situ after washing with fatty acid soap by attenuated total reflectance using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The residue of fatty acid soap on the skin was observed when calcium ions were present in the water being used, and it was confirmed to be adsorbing onto the skin as fatty acid calcium salts. This adsorption residue was quantified using the Amide I or Amide III absorption bands of the epidermal horny proteins as an internal standard.The behavior of adsorption residues has been examined with this method, and it was confirmed that the quantity of adsorption residue increased depending on the calcium ion concentration in the water. Furthermore, it was suggested that the adsorption residue was induced by the insoluble salt formation from fatty acid anions adsorbed onto the skin and calcium ions at the time of rinsing. Fatty acid calcium salts adsorbed onto the skin were gradually desorbed by sufficient rinsing, but the influence of calcium ions was also seen in this case. This desorption speed was slower when calcium ions were present.

著者

吉村 政哲 城倉 洋二 花沢 英行 野崎 利雄 奥田 峰広 芋川 玄爾

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.27, no.3, pp.249-254, 1993-12-16 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

20

被引用文献数

4 1

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Lauroyl beta-alanine (LBA) is a unique amino acid derivative-surfactant which has recently been found to have very low potential of inducing a specific inflammationrelated receptor on epidemal cells, intercellular adhesion molecule-1 (ICAM-1) when incubated with human keratinocytes. This led us to assume that this surfactant possesses very low cutaneous inflammatory properties as opposed to ordinary commercially available anionic surfactants. Thus, we have assessed the biologic effects of LBA on several cellular derangements in the stratum comeum, cytotoxicity against human keratinocytes and an influence on arachidonic metabolism in skin tissue in comparison with those by other ordinary anionic surfactants such as potassium myristate (SOAP), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI), acylmethyl taurine (AMT) and monoalkyl phosphate (MAP).Permeability experiments using hairless pig skin indicated that LBA is 10 and 3 times as lower permeable as SOAP and MAP, respectively. In in vitro study on human keratinocytes, of all anionic surfactants used, LBA showed the lowest inhibitory effect on cell growth which was accompanied by a lower level of the release of arachidonic metabolite such as prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) from human keratinocytes. This mild cellular effect was also corroborated by the previous observations that LBA elicits on substantial expression of ICAM-1 which has recently been identified on surface of epidermal cells in inflammatory dermatosis typified by T cell infiltration, in contrast to a marked expression by some of other anionic surfactants.In order to clarify in vivo cutaneous effect, cumulative cup shaking test was carried out on the inner surface of human forearm skin by applying surfactant aqueous solutions twice a day for four days. Whereas almost all anionic surfactants induced severe scaling and erythematous reactions during repeated treatments, LBA was the only surfactant which did not elicit any roughness and inflammatory reaction. This non-inflammatory property was also corroborated by an additional study on damaged skin that roughened forearm skin after acetone/ether treatment can be slightly restored even by successive applications of LBA, but not other anionic surfactants used. These findings indicate that LBA has biologically low active properties to both stratum coreum and epidermal cells which may lead to the development of a unique surfactant applicable to damaged skins.

著者

大江 昌彦 奥村 秀信 山村 達郎 松中 浩 森岡 恒男

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.38, no.3, pp.220-225, 2004-09-20 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

17

被引用文献数

1 1

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海水に含まれるミネラル成分であるオリゴマリン®について, 保湿ならびに肌荒れ改善作用に着目して検討を行った。その結果, オリゴマリン®は培養真皮線維芽細胞を活性化して, コラーゲン産生を促進した。また, 培養ケラチノサイトに対しては, 角化マーカーであるトランスグルタミナーゼ (TG-1) やインボルクリンの発現を高め, 角化を充進させることを確認した。さらに, オリゴマリン®の配合量に応じて角層水分量が増加することから, 肌表面での保湿作用が確認できた。実際に, 乾燥肌の被験者を対象とした使用試験の結果, オリゴマリン®を配合したローションの使用部位で角質水分量の増加, TEWLの減少, ならびに角質細胞形態の改善が観察された。したがって, オリゴマリン®には, 真皮マトリックス構造を強化するとともに, 表皮の角化を促してバリア機能を改善することで肌表面の水分保持能を高め, 肌荒れの予防・改善に有用であることが示唆された。

著者

石戸谷 豊昌 岡田 正紀

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.35, no.1, pp.64-66, 2001-03-20 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

7

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角層の自然剥離は, 角層中のプロテアーゼによりデスモゾームが加水分解することによって起こり, 乾燥による水分不足がプロテアーゼ活性を阻害し, 角層の剥離不全をきたすことが知られている。そこで被験者に睡眠不足をストレスとして与え, 就床時に嗜好性の高い香りをルームフレグランスの剤型として用い, 香りが角層中のプロテアーゼ (トリプシン) 活性にどのような影響を及ぼすかについて検討した。その結果, 香りの存在する場合の方が, 存在しない場合に比較して角層中のプロテアーゼ活性が有意に高かった。快適な香りが心理面に好影響をもたらし, 良質な睡眠により正常時の心身状態に近づいたためではないかと思われた。

著者

窪田 正男 駒木 亮一 伊藤 芳和 新井 みち代 庭瀬 英明

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.28, no.3, pp.295-298, 1994-12-05 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

6

被引用文献数

7 9

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It has been known empirically that the odor evolved from human hair and scalp is different from the odor from body or foot.We tried to identified the volatile compounds evolved from human hair and scalp using headspace sampling method and extraction by acetone.By the headspace method, over eighty of compounds were detected and almost thirty subsequently identified. The latter belong to various chemical classes such as alkanes, alkenes, alcohols, aldehydes, and acids. we tried to reconstitute of the odor according to the result of analysis and using the sense of perfumers.Moreover, the changing of volatile compounds and increasing of scalp resident bacteriars during three days were investigated.

著者

河野 善行

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.36, no.4, pp.253-261, 2002-12-20 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

25

被引用文献数

1 1

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保湿は肌荒れに対して大変有効な手段であり, また化粧品の最も基本的かつ重要な機能と考えられる。そして多くの種類のエモリエント剤や保湿剤が皮膚の水分保持や乾燥を防御することを目的として用いられてきた。角質層においては, 自然保湿成分 (NMF), 皮脂および細胞間脂質の重要性が証明されてきた。皮膚科学的なアプローチの観点からわれわれは皮膚保湿のメカニズムのアナロジーを皮膚上で再構築してきた。具体的には肌荒れに対して, 水, 保湿剤および脂質を等価に皮膚に補う“モイスチャーバランス”の有用性を証明してきた。これらとは別に化粧品の開発に薬理学的なアプローチの観点も重要であり, 新規な化粧品有効成分の開発に大変役に立つ方法論である。近年われわれは, 肌荒れにおいて表皮プロテアーゼが重要な役割を果たすこと, またその活性を阻害することが修復を促すことを明らかにしてきた。そして表皮プロテアーゼであるプラスミンの阻害活性を有し, 肌荒れに効果を有するt-AMCHAを開発した。本総説では, 皮膚の保湿のメカニズムと, 皮膚科学的にまた薬理学的に開発されたスキンケア化粧品についてレビューする。

著者

曽我部 敦 安田 正明 野田 章

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.36, no.3, pp.207-216, 2002-09-20 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

38

被引用文献数

9 10

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頭髪上での毛髪のハリ・コシ感は, 毛髪の曲げ硬さやねじり硬さ, 毛髪間の摩擦による影響など複数の物理特性の組合せによるものであるが, 最も基本的な因子の一つには, 毛髪一本の硬さがあげられる。そこで毛髪の硬さについて, 曲げ応力測定と毛髪径測定を行い, 材料力学的見地から, ヤング率による評価を試みた。毛髪の短径および長径を正確に測定するために, レーザー光を利用した毛髪径測定装置を開発した。また, 毛髪をキューティクル, コルテックスより構成される, 異なるヤング率を持った二層構造と仮定し, 毛髪全体のヤング率と物理的にキューティクル層を剥離させたコルテックス部分のみからなる毛髪のヤング率測定を行い, 材料力学的な解析によりキューティクルのヤング率を算出した。その結果, キューティクルはコルテックスの4倍程度硬いことがわかった。また, 毛髪の短径, 長径およびキューティクル層の厚さの測定結果と併せて, 曲げ応力に対するキューティクルとコルテックスの寄与率を算出したところ, キューティクルの曲げ応力への寄与率は, 全体の約6割に達し, 曲げ応力の発生はキューティクルが重要な役割を担っていることを見出した。

著者

龍田 真伸 植村 雅明 鳥居 健二 松岡 昌弘

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.21, no.1, pp.43-49, 1987-07-31 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

13

被引用文献数

5 9

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The effects of ultraviolet and sunlight radiation on the decolorization and damage of human black hair were studied.Effects of ultraviolet light were studied by exposing hair samples to a carbon-arc lamp, while the solar effects were examined by exposing hair samples to natural daylight.Hair damage was evaluated from the ratio of the force at 20% elongation of untreated hair fibers and treated ones. The change of the color was evaluated by measuring the hue value of hair strands. It was also evaluated from the reflectance of hair fibers when scanned at 500nm by a chromatoscanner.Exposing black hair fibers immersed in deionized water to ultraviolet or sunlight lowered their tensile properties and fading was also observed. The same phenomena were confirmed in case of sea water too. In dry condition, exposing black hair fibers to ultraviolet or sunlight did not change their color and tensile properties. Furthermore, we found out that as the pH values of immersing solution increased, the ultraviolet light irradiated hairs became less tensile, and fading was also accelerated.

著者

近藤 光男 南野 博美 奥山 源一郎 本田 計一 永沢 久直 大谷 泰永

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.17, no.1, pp.14-18, 1983-11-15 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

7

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Physicochemical properties of β-glycyrrhizin (β-G, a triterpenoid saponin) and α-glycyrrhizin (α-G, a stereoisomer of β-G, newly developed in this study) were examined in connection with cosmetics.Both α- and β-G's exhibited similarly considerable interfacial activity. However, the aqueous solution of β-G formed extremely rigid gel in acidic media, whereas α-G showed no sign of gelation.β-G can emulsify various oily materials lying in a wide range of required HLB value, while α-G has the solubilizing ability for several perfume materials.A series of experiments were carried out to obtain some informations on the solubilizing, emulsifying, and gelling mechanisms of G's by using 13C-NMR, scanning electron microscope and various derivatives of G's.The results suggested that β-G molecule which was found to be cyclically constructed constitutes the micells which in turn orient anisotropically to form the rigid gel and stabilize the emulsion.

著者

渋江 ゆう子 小山内 宰 武内 栄次郎 岩井 秀隆 峰松 義博

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.26, no.2, pp.120-130, 1992-10-30 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

10

被引用文献数

2 1

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To evaluate skin color and skin tone exactly, we developed a new instrument, Skin Tone Analyzer (STA), which applys an image-processing system on the polarized images of skin.The insertion of two polarized filters into the CCD camera in STA made the observation of clear images without interference from the diffuse reflections originating on the surface of the skin. The 20 times magnified images of the skin surface (1×1cm) are resolved into 400×400 points and transfered to a digital computer. To measure the color difference value, calculate the L, a and b values of each point from their respective R, G and B values, using conversion equations determined from the measurement of two hundred pieces of standard color papers with the STA and general spectrophotometric colorimeter (CMS-1200). Then, the color differences determined by STA are indicated as average values of L, a and b values for a finite set of points. Further, their standard deviation values (s. d.) which may represent the degree of skin tone (irregularity in the lavel of skin color) are obtained. In fact, we found that the s. d. of b values (s. d. b) among the three components, L, a and b, reflects appropriately the degree of skin tone caused by delocalization of melanin. Thus we now propose that the s. d. b is a good parameter for the evaluation of skin tone. Moreover, a designated part of images can be analyzed and STA will be a useful tool for the study of pigmentation spots.Based on the above assumption, we examined the effect of seasons and aging on the skin color and skin tone of the cheek (exposed skin) and the inside of the upper arm (non-exposed skin) in healthy Japanese females (N=62, 19-75y) with STA. From the analyses of skin tone during periodical measurements, the degree of skin tone in the cheek was found to be worse than the arm's. The former becoming worse owing to aging, but the later exhibiting no change. Also the degree of skin tone in the cheek in October (after the summer) was worse than in February (in the winter). In addition, L and b values for the cheek also increased owing to aging, but these values for the arm did not so change.It is known that daily exposure to ultraviolet rays (UV) can influence colory skin. We now also confirm that UV promotes a change for the worse in the skin tone. Next, we propose to study the effects of UV on localized pigmentation using STA.

著者

舛田 勇二 武井 希世子 水垣 めぐみ

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.28, no.2, pp.147-152, 1994-09-15 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

5

被引用文献数

3 4

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In order to develop more effective whitening cosmetics, it is necessary to measure the efficacy of the whitening agent objectively. A new quantitative measurement method of stains on the face is called for. We therefore have developed a system in which we measure stains on both an arbitrary part of the face and an arbitarary measure area of that part. We then express the measured values using ITV camera. In this way, we analyze typical brown spots and freckles.In this system-which we call REMO-STAIN System (Remote stain measurement system)-the face image without stains is processed from original face image using pixel averaging procedure. The Lab value is calculated from the difference between original image and processed image for each pixel. The color defference (dE) is calculated from Lab maps and expressed in mapping expression. We propose that average of dE obtained from REMO-STAIN System be used as the new index of brown spots and freckles.We analyzed the measurements of typical brown spots and freckles, including senile lentigos (age spots), melasma (liver spots) and ephelides (freckles).

著者

五十幡 巌

出版者

THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS OF JAPAN

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者連合会会報 (ISSN:1884412X)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.2, pp.16-18, 1964-08-25 (Released:2010-08-06)

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It is often said that popularity of perfumes does not so much change year after year as that of colors or costumes. We can see, however, transitions in popurality retracing their developments from old till latest days.Formerly the perfumes appeared in such simple types as Hungarian Water or Eau de Cologne, succeeded by single floral, floral bouquet or oriental types, for example as Quelques Fleurs, Narcisse Noir or Mitsouko.With gradual appearance of aliphatic aldehyde, so-called aldehyde types like Reve d'Or, Chanel, Arpège, etc. were created one after another in the nineteen-twenties which can be said the first golden age of French perfumes.These basic tones had not changed so much until the end of the World War II when remarkably new perfumes such as Miss Dior, Bandit, Ma Griffe, etc. were introduced. The characteristics of these perfumes may properly be said to have green, spicy and animal notes added as modifiers.In these several years Madame Rochas, Calèche, Cabochard and more recently Graffitti, Idole, Eau, Chant d'Aromes, Enthousiasme, Parce Que, Fete, Diorling, L'Insolent, kalispera have entered as new creations. In my own opinion, however, the perfumes of this series seem to be not so unique, but the variants in some point or another of the traditional perfumes introduced after the War.From a viewpoint of transitions in European notes it can be said that heavy balsamic notes in Chypre de Coty, Mitsouko or Emeraude are now dying out and aldehyde notes are declining compared with the age of Chanel No. 5. On the contrary we see light floral top-notes of Muguet, Gardenia, Carnation, etc. have become emphasized with use as modifiers of green notes such as leather or quinoline, or of fruity and spicy notes. It may be described on the whole that the perfumes now in vogue have become more of a simple Bouquet type with modest expression of characteristics, consealing, as it were, their individualties within.Meanwhile in America such sharp and pungent notes in as those Ma Griffe are more popular than straight floral, olassic and heavy oriental notes.As to new chemicals they have been utilized throughut the world particularly in recent years, and in America it seems that this tendency is most remarkable in the perfumes of middle class used in make-ups, creams, soaps, and so on.The above descriptions are my general idea with regard to the tendency of odors represented by Extraits.

著者

金高 節子 宮田 勝保 中村 良治

出版者

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

雑誌

日本化粧品技術者会誌 (ISSN:03875253)

巻号頁・発行日

vol.24, no.1, pp.5-12, 1990-08-25 (Released:2010-08-06)

参考文献数

11

被引用文献数

4

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This work was concerned with the characterization of nonkeratinous and keratinous proteins of human hair eluted by permanent wave lotion I (PWL-I). Polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis, infrared spectroscopy and amino acid analysis method were applied.From these examinations, the following results were obtained. (1) Nothing was eluted from human hair by hot water (60°C, 3hr treatment), whereas some extracts were obtained using alkaline solution, surfactant solution, or PWL-I (permanent wave lotion I). (2) The mass of the proteins extracted by PWL-1 accounted for about 1% of the total mass of the hair and tended to increase with an increase in pH. (3) It was confirmed that the molecular weights ranged from 5, 000 to 65, 000 by SDS PAGE. (4) The amino acid composition of the PWL-1 extracts was similar to that of colagenous proteins which was unexpected. The composition was diffrent from that of intercuticular material, δ, eluted by formic acid. Therefore, we suspected that the PWL-1 extract was eluted from the δ layer among the cortical cells.In addition, it was clarified that a part of keratinous protein was extracted from hair which was damaged by repeated treatments of PWL or breached by hydrogen peroxide and ammonia water. It is thought to be eluted from the matrix in the cortical cell which is composed of amorphous keratin of high sulfer content.These results will help clarify the mechanism of the elution of intercellar material of humann hair and the mechanism of hair damage by external treatments.