1 0 0 0 触覚過敏者における衣服課題と衣料用編物の触覚評価
1 0 0 0 繊維・アパレル産業の企業間取引ネットワークにおける自己相似的構造
- 著者
- 小粥 勇作 松村 嘉之 大谷 毅 高寺 政行 星野 雄介 保田 俊行 大倉 和博
- 出版者
- 一般社団法人 日本繊維製品消費科学会
- 雑誌
- 繊維製品消費科学 (ISSN:00372072)
- 巻号頁・発行日
- vol.58, no.7, pp.590-598, 2017
<p><tt>繊維・アパレル産業の企業間取引ネットワークにおいて,</tt>8 <tt>分野(総合アパレル,レディス,メンズ,デザイナー,ベビー・子供服,インナーウエア・靴下,スポーツウエア,ジーンズ・ユニフォーム)計</tt>1476 <tt>社について,複雑ネットワーク分析を実施した.全体</tt>1476 <tt>社についてと代表的な</tt>3 <tt>分野として,総合アパレル</tt>217 <tt>社,レディス</tt>603 <tt>社,メンズ</tt>202 <tt>社のそれぞれの取引関係数について,次数分布の両辺対数変換を施したところ,全体と</tt>3 <tt>分野それぞれにおいて,べき指数</tt> γ <tt>⋍</tt> -2 <tt>の自己相似的構造が確認された.また,全体と</tt>3 <tt>分野のそれぞれはネットワーク直径が</tt>6 <tt>次以下であるスモール・ワールド性も確認された.さらに,ネットワークの中心性に関する指標により,繊維・アパレル産業の多くの分野で,商社がネットワークの中心的な取引を展開していることが判明した.</tt></p>
1 0 0 0 OA 粒子系モデルによる衣服圧推定に関する研究
- 著者
- 堀場 洋輔 乾 滋 高寺 政行 清水 義雄
- 出版者
- 社団法人 繊維学会
- 雑誌
- 繊維学会誌 (ISSN:00379875)
- 巻号頁・発行日
- vol.66, no.12, pp.304-313, 2010 (Released:2011-01-17)
- 被引用文献数
- 2 3
In this paper, we discussed the particle based mechanical model for numerical simulation of clothing pressure. Human body and clothing were represented as an elastic body by particle system, collision between human body and clothing was represented by impulse force based model. The two simulations were conducted to evaluate the validity of the suggested model. In the first simulation, clothing pressure on the elastic cylinder covered with cloth was predicted to evaluate the precision of static clothing pressure prediction. As a result, it was confirmed that it had the accuracy of 0.08 kPa, but there was a room for improvement to predict on the edge of cloth. Although it is considered that the mesh resolution (particle distance) caused the problem, it is important to decide a suitable mesh resolution for purpose because it is directly with calculation time. In the second simulation, we conducted the simulation that winding elbow with sleeve to evaluate the precision of dynamic clothing pressure prediction. As a result, it was observed that clothing pressure changed with elbow flexion. However it was not able to obtain the accurate result caused by numerical instability in the case of fast elbow flexion. It is considered that time step and collision model between clothing and human body on the simulation caused numerical instability. Improvement and implementation of the simulation considering whole body motion for dynamic clothing pressure prediction are our future work.
1 0 0 0 OA 日本のファッション事業と国際プレゼンス
- 著者
- 大谷 毅 KIM KyoungOk 高橋 正人 乾 滋 森川 英明 高寺 政行
- 出版者
- Japan Society of Kansei Engineering
- 雑誌
- 日本感性工学会論文誌 (ISSN:18840833)
- 巻号頁・発行日
- vol.13, no.5, pp.629-668, 2014 (Released:2015-01-30)
- 参考文献数
- 65
- 被引用文献数
- 1 12
In “Cool Japan,” the government has been trying to promote the internationalization of the fashion business by Japanese companies as a national policy since 2005. The aim has mostly failed, and only partially completed efforts have been confirmed. Consequently, the presence of the Japanese fashion business remains weak in the global fashion market. The purpose of this paper is to explain the cause. While the domestic fashion market has experienced rapid growth over the 50 years following World War II, fashion companies have not shown an interest in foreign markets. Designers of ready-to-wear apparel have followed the fashion styles of Paris and Milan. As long as fashion companies were realizing growing revenues, top management of large-scale fashion companies supported these trends. Top management did not delegate significant discretion for designs to the chief of design, and chief or creative directors had uncertain roles.As a result, designers may have lost their creativity in a commercial sense, and the chief of design is no longer responsible for sales. Top management has given more priority to modelisme than stylisme. Much interest was focused on mistakes in the product details rather than customer profiles. Senior management understood that we had efficiently conducted our fashion business in this manner.It became impossible to assume the risk associated with international market expansion. In the 1990s, the price of the property price in Tokyo decreased after collapse of the bubble economy. It attracted the famous fashion houses of Europe to the burgeoning commercial areas of Tokyo. On the other hand, Japanese entrepreneurs were unable to recover markets lost to the Europeans, even by expanding into foreign markets. Despotic leadership is necessary for the success of the fashion business. As for the company form, possession and management should be the same one. The entrepreneur should delegate the necessary discretion to the chief of design. The chief's discretion will depend on the decision premise, which precedes the first stage of fashion design. The design of fashion clothing will be added according to going through the manufacturing process. The virtual “design chain” is determined by the chief of design.The manufacturer of ready-to-wear is to “make to stock.” If nobody buy it, ready-to-wear would not exist, and the values are not found. The defects are caused at the design of the first stage. The cheif should owe its responsibility.This business depends on the sensibility or affection of humans, which is difficult to understand. However, the design chiefs of the textile manufacturers have promoted abduction about the decision premise of the chief designer at Maison. Therefore, marketing activities are being conducted aggressively. The role of a fashion designer of ready-to-wear clothing is different from that of an artist. From a large chaotic space, a “subset” is extracted. Subset is action space that is shared by certain people. It is assumed that a subset of these is represented by several people, model. Therefore, the task of the chief gives silhouette in this model. If we assume that the silhouette is supported by action space, sellable products can be designed. Action space may exist globally across the border. In many cases, global properties for global markets are lurking among these.
1 0 0 0 OA 平織物の光透過異方性
- 著者
- 矢崎 美彦 高寺 政行 清水 義雄
- 出版者
- 社団法人 繊維学会
- 雑誌
- 繊維学会誌 (ISSN:00379875)
- 巻号頁・発行日
- vol.60, no.10, pp.281-286, 2004 (Released:2006-02-09)
- 被引用文献数
- 4 4
Light transmission property of plain woven fabrics was studied in order to perform the fabric design considering the transmission. A light transmission measurement apparatus which could change incidence and receiving direction of light was developed and the change of the transmission factor by light direction was measured for plain woven fabrics. Because structures of the fabrics are anisotropy, the light transmission property showed anisotropy. The anisotropy of transmission factor was remarkable in large incidence angle, and the minimum or maximum values were showed every Pai/4 cycle. An approximation curve of anisotropy was proposed and the anisotropic light transmission factor was estimated from a measurement at front of a fabric and structure of the fabric based on crimp theory of Peirce.
1 0 0 0 OA 国際市場を前提とする服飾造形とテキスタイルの設計提案に関する技術的経営的研究
- 著者
- 高寺 政行 大谷 毅 森川 英明 乾 滋 南澤 孝太 佐藤 哲也 鋤柄 佐千子 大塚 美智子 金 キョンオク 宮武 恵子 松村 嘉之 鈴木 明 韓 載香 柳田 佳子 古川 貴雄 石川 智治 西松 豊典 矢野 海児 松本 陽一 徃住 彰文 濱田 州博 上條 正義 金井 博幸 坂口 明男 森川 陽 池田 和子 鈴木 美和子 北折 貴子 鄭 永娥 藤本 隆宏 正田 康博 山村 貴敬 高橋 正人 中嶋 正之 太田 健一 堀場 洋輔
- 出版者
- 信州大学
- 雑誌
- 基盤研究(S)
- 巻号頁・発行日
- 2012-05-31
我が国ファッション事業の国際化に寄与する研究を目指し,国際ファッション市場に対応する繊維工学的課題の解決,国際ファッション市場に通用するTPS/テキスタイル提案システムの構築を行った.国際市場に実績ある事業者を対象とし,現場の調査,衣服製作実験,商品の評価を行い我が国との比較を行った.欧州・中国と日本における衣服・テキスタイル設計,評価および事業の違いを明らかにし,事業と技術の課題を明らかにした.デザイナーのテキスタイル選択要件を調査し,テキスタイルの分類法,感性評価値を組み込みTPSを構築した.日欧で評価実験を行い有効性を確認した.また,衣服・テキスタイル設計評価支援の技術的知見を得た.
1 0 0 0 OA 国際市場を前提としたファッションのマーケティング・設計・製造過程と工学的体系化
- 著者
- 大谷 毅 高寺 政行 森川 英明 乾 滋 徃住 彰文 柳田 佳子 宮武 恵子 矢野 海児 濱田 州博 池田 和子 鈴木 美和子 鈴木 明 正田 康博 上條 正義 松村 嘉之 菅原 正博 藤本 隆宏 肖 文陵 高橋 正人 韓 載香 金 キョンオク 李 宏偉 佐野 希美子 NAKANISHI-DERAT Emi 雑賀 静
- 出版者
- 信州大学
- 雑誌
- 基盤研究(A)
- 巻号頁・発行日
- 2011-04-01
日本のファッション衣料の国際プレゼンスが低い原因は、国境を超えた着用者への製品の提案力の欠如にあった。日本のmodelismeは良好だがstylisme(ことに一次設計)は脆弱だ。スタイルの代替案想起・期待・選択作業は、設計者に対し、グローバルな着用者の行動空間に関する知見を求める。これはまた事業者の決定の価値前提の問題に関係する。大規模なファッション事業者の官僚組織が生み出す「逆機能」とも密接に係る。単にブランドの問題だけではなく、事業規模・裁量・ルーチン・経営資源配分に関わることが判明した。製品展示を半年以上前倒しするテキスタイル設計過程は、衣服デザイナーの決定前提の一部を説明していた。